Kansas Dugout Quilt Block and Y Seam Tutorial

I just love this little guy.  Such an amazing little piece.  The 1/4" presser foot with guide.

Have you ever noticed those little notches along the side before?

Me either... Until now!

Each is spaced exactly 1/4" apart.  Hmmm.....

In Monday's post, which you can read here, I promised to share my secret on how I pieced the Kansas Dugout blocks without marking the seam lines.

This tutorial will show you just how I made those blocks.

I set Aunt Elna to Quilt with the 1/4" setting.

This automatically sets the needle at 8.3 and adjusts the stitch length to 1.80

Lay the square on top of the side piece with right sides together (RST).

Insert the needle 1/4" away from the raw edges of the square.

Notice that the back notch on the side of the presser foot is on the edge of the square?

No need to mark that corner.

Start sewing about three stitches, backstitch three stitches and then continue.

Stop stitching when the front notch is at the edge of your square and backstitch to lock the threads.

No need to mark that corner either.

Sew the other side piece on in the same manner.

Press the seams open.

Place the next side piece on the square with RST, centering it, and pin in place.

Do the same for the final side piece.

Flip the block over and insert the needle just a smidge in front of the seam.

Notice the center notch on the presser foot is now just in front of the seam?

No need to mark that corner.

Start sewing about three stitches, backstitch three stitches and then continue sewing.

 Stop stitching just a smidge before the seam, when the center notch is at the edge of your square, and backstitch to lock the threads.

No need to mark that corner either.

Sew the other side piece on in the same manner.

Press the seams open.

Your pressed block from the back.

Fold the block in half diagonally with RST.

The bottom edges of your sides will be alined, as will the pointy corners.

Notice how the center square is folded where it meets the side pieces?

Finger press to crease that diagonal fold.

Now I readjust Aunt Elna.

This puts the needle into the center position at 4.5 and the stitch length remains at 1.80

And I change to the regular presser foot.
*I will explain the reason at the end of the tutorial.*

Insert the needle just in front of that corner.  Sew three stitches and backstitch.

Then continue ALL THE WAY OFF THE END.

Here is the completed corner seam.

Do this for the remaining corners.

Ta, da!  You just sewed a Y seam!

Four of them, in fact!

Here is how the back looks prior to pressing.

I press my seams open whenever practical.

If you prefer, press them to the side.

Finished Kansas Dugout block - front view

Now...
I am NOT saying this way of making the Kansas Dugout block is the right way or the better way.  But it is my way.

And it is an easy way.  Because there is no marking involved.  And, by pressing the seams open, you can always see where to insert the needle and where to start and stop stitching without going into the adjoining pieces.  This also allows your finished top to lay smooth and flat.



*Why did I change from my 1/4" presser foot?*

The quilt math gods were frowning upon my method.  Using the edges of your center square to determine where to stop and start stitching results in a slight discrepancy or inaccuracy.  My bad!

So this caused my corner seams to be greater than 1/4".  The main thing is to continue that diagonal created by the fold and to watch that your side edge remains perpendiculr (at a right angle) to the seam.

As a side note....

My blocks were made with a directional print and CANNOT be used in an on point setting.

My Setting

On Point Setting

My Setting

On Point Setting

Personally, I do prefer the look of the on point setting.  It is more appealing and reflects the alternate name for this block - The Lattice Block.

Oh, well..... Maybe next time!

This top finished at 44" square.



As another side note....

Having used my AccuQuilt GO! Signature Block die, instead of the standard size of piece for this block, did not effect the final outcome, except in appearance.

Diagram A shows the pieces used for my block.
Diagram B shows the proportions for the traditional block.

The main thing is to ensure, on your side pieces, the length of the sides must be equal to the sides of the square.  And that the pointed ends are squared.

So whatever method you use to cut out your pieces, mark or not mark them, press open or press to the side and whatever setting you decide to put your blocks in.... Just remember one thing.

Y seams are not that hard.

And they advance your skills level to enable you to make other blocks.  To do mitered borders.

I encourage you to just try it.  Just do one block.

My Oblongagon quilt and Hexagon quilt both had Y seams.  I am planning to do another hexagon quilt and press the seams open as I go.  Perhaps this will make it's construction easier.


Throw another quilt into that bucket!
The Susannah quilt block.  I have been admiring that one.
This would make a gorgeous quilt, too!

This post has been added to my Tutorials page.
That page sure needed a spring cleaning!
Please come and have a look around!

Will you give Y seams a go?

Keep On Quilting On!